Canada Stories

EP 01 · Canada Stories

The Falls From Above

Seven hundred and seventy-five feet up, the whole river finally makes sense — both falls, one bridge, and the gorge running away green below.

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The American Falls and the Rainbow Bridge from the Skylon Tower observation deck

From the street, the Skylon Tower is just a needle against the sky, easy to walk past. Ride the glass elevator up its outside, though, and the doors open onto the one view in town that holds everything at once: the American Falls pouring white on the left, the great green curve of the Horseshoe on the right, and between them a river that does not look hurried at all — until you notice the foam racing underneath.

The Skylon Tower from the street, above the go-kart track on Clifton Hill
From the street it is just a needle. From the top, it is the whole river.
The American Falls and the Horseshoe in a single frame from the Skylon Tower
Both falls in one frame — the shot this whole season hangs on.

The deck floor itself tells the story in metal letters. Brass markers are set into the rim, each one an arrow and a bearing: 47°35'18" toward the Niagara River, 63°39'26" toward the Rainbow Bridge. Somebody took the trouble to write down exactly where your eyes are pointing. Standing on those numbers, the map and the land line up — you are not looking at a picture of the falls any more. You are inside the geography.

Brass direction marker on the Skylon deck: 47 degrees 35 minutes 18 seconds, Niagara River
Brass direction marker on the Skylon deck: 63 degrees 39 minutes 26 seconds, Rainbow Bridge

What stays with you up there is not the height. It is the quiet. The falls move an almost unbelievable amount of water, and from 775 feet the roar arrives softened, like weather in another county. You can take the whole scene slowly — the boats stitching white lines below, the mist rising off the Horseshoe in its own slow weather system. A world built this generously is not an accident to rush past. We stood a long while, and the only honest response was thanks — to the God who made all this, and left it here for anyone willing to look up.

Hidden gem

The Skylon observation deck sits 775 ft (236 m) above the falls — the one spot where all three falls (Horseshoe, American, Bridal Veil) fit in a single look.

Would return

Go up on a clear morning for the long views; come back at dusk if you can — the same deck watches the falls light up after dark.

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Next · EP 02Standing at the BrinkThe falls themselves, from the boatMy Niagara Falls — our destination season for the falls: sailing into the mist, the Horseshoe up close, and standing at the foot of it all.

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All episodes

  1. EP 01The Falls From AboveSeven hundred and seventy-five feet up, the whole river finally makes sense — both falls, one bridge, and the gorge running away green below.
  2. EP 02Standing at the BrinkUp on the tower the river looked calm. Down here at the rail, it is all speed — water shouldering past, and then the edge, and then nothing but mist.
  3. EP 03The Smallest ChurchTen feet square, six seats, one low door — and a guest book full of travellers who stopped, the way we did, because it was there.
  4. EP 04A Clock Made of FlowersForty feet across, planted tens of thousands deep, and keeping time since 1950 — somebody has to replant this clock twice a year, and somebody does.
  5. EP 05The River BendsBelow the falls, the river makes a hard right turn — and the water that misses the turn has been circling in the Whirlpool for four thousand years.